Thursday, 20 November 2014

SEVILLE. ARCHIVO GENERAL DE INDIAS


This was a place I wanted to see as soon as I read about it. As the name suggests, it is an archive where documents relating to the Spanish Empire are stored.


Along with the archives is a small museum relating to this time in history. I wanted to go firstly because I have always found this time in Spanish history fascinating. Secondly I wanted to look at the beautiful old maps and calligraphy on the old scrolls, that detailed this time. 




The time mainly covered that time in history when Spain was building its Empire in South America, and stealing all the gold and riches from the native Indian populations there, such as the Incas and the Aztecs.



It also covered the time when both Mexico and Southern California were also Spanish Colonies. The Spanish did travel across the Pacific and discovered such places as the Carolina Islands, but I don't think the colonisation of The Philipines came until much later. I looked on all the maps, and Australia  wasn't shown. Anyway South America was where all the gold and riches were. 

The building itself, was originally a meeting place for the rich merchants who were making contracts, wheeling and dealing, and making a fortune from the Spanish explorations. You could tell the bulding reeked money from the wide marble staircases, to the beautiful oak panelled walls.



The museum itself was quite small and written explanation of the exhibits were only in Spanish. But that wasn't so bad because with my dodgy Spanish, and a bit of knowledge of the other Latin  languages I could usully work out what they said. As I walked around, I couldn't help thinking about how much these Spanish explorers and colonizers were so much like Captain Cook and his companions.

There was a model of Marco Polo's ship the Santa Mariia, just as there is of Captain Cook's Discovery. 


On at least one of these trips there was a Spanish equivalent of Captain Cook's naturalist companion Joseph Banks. Just as Banks made detailed drawings of the Australian flora and fauna, so did his Spanish equivalent. Just as Cook's travellers from the old world were both fascinated and puzzled by what they saw in this new land of Australia, so where the Spaniards by what they encounterd in the New World of South America. 



There is an article and a drawing which tries to work out whether something one of the Spaniards had seen was either a fish or a sirene (Mermaid). If I remember rightly, one of Cook's crew saw something similar, which Banks duly noted and pondered on.

So the Archive was an interesting way to spend an hour or so on a wet afternoon. (The only bad weather we had on the whole trip). I'm glad I went.

Flamenco in Seville.

Flamenco music is alive and well and living in Seville. As you can see there are posters on the wall, live performances and buskers.



The photo below shows a busker, (listening to him play, a better description would be concert artist) playing in the little square where we were having lunch. I felt very spoiled and priveleged when I gave the man a couple of Euros, and he played just for Julie and I. How very southern Spain, lunch around   3:00pm sitting outside in the square, and listening to beautiful guitar music wafting in the air.



We went to two proper formal flamenco concerts, both very enoyable, but both different. The first was very traditional. Held in a small room, about thirty chairs placed around a small stage. You can see how small the stage was when you see that four people just about filled it up. There was no eating, drinking, or photos, you just went to sit, listen and watch. The second show was more cabaret  style, held in a restaurant with people wining and dining. The second show had two guitarists, three singers, two male, and three female dancers, whereas the first one had just a guitarist, a singer and a female dancer.


A quick flamenco 101 in case I get carried away but I'll try not too. Flamenco is "back to front music" In that in other music, the singers and dancers, follow the music, in Flamenco it's the other way round. Flamenco is also like jazz, in that all the participants know the song, but when improvising if one has a musical idea, the others can pick it up and bounce off it. This spark can be the singer, dancer, or musician, but generally the dancer leads. This is why sometimes the participants are often glancing around at each other, or gazing at the dancer's feet and or body. Sounds complicated? It isn't really once you get the hang of it.

So in the first show, the guitarist played some solo pieces. Stunningly beautiful, and I could have just listened to him all night, then the singer came on and another Flamencio dynamic appeared. Both singer and musician intertwined and weaved in and out of each other's music. Already you could feel the emotion and concentration in the air. Finally the dancer arrived, and the next dynamic arrived.




Generally the dancer leads, and it is her role to interpret the words that are being sung to her through dance. What a great dancer she was. She didn't use her body and hands much, just amazing footwork and changing rhythms. 
All three participants were almost spent by the end of the performance.

The second cabaret show was different. Because no photos were allowed, I've had to take images from the internet to try and show you the excitement and specatacle of a big Flamenco show


 The lead female dancer in this used a beautiful flowing dress to exaggerate her grand gestures and exuberant body movements, not too much feet at all. 


This show had male dancers, and the lead dancer had all the arrogance macho, dignity, and energy needed in a dancer. He chose to dress in street clothes to project the image of the macho street dude. 



His footwork was amazing too. To say that it was an "energetic" performance woud be an understatement. Sadly, neither of the guitarists got to play a solo, although one of them sounded as if he could have been very good given the chance. But it was the lead singer who was the leader of the troupe.



He had the voice with all the microtones and timbres of Flamenco's roots. It was he who was the "conductor" of the performance. He was the one who was always aware of what was happening on stage. Using his voice, heimplored the dancers to even greater heights, and with just three of four handclaps of foot stamps this takes the music into a new direction.

If I had a "dream team," it would be the guitarist and female dancer from the first performance, and the lead singer and lead dancer from the second.

So you see Flamenco is thriving in Seville just as it has been for hundreds of years. Long may it reign.





Getting to Córdoba

We had a nice 'easy pace' day trip to/from Seville to Córdoba.

This time we went by another very fast train [or Alta Velocidad Espanola ](AVE) at 250km/h; so beautiful and smooth; like gliding along the track.


Display during "flight" or train trip.

Inside the AVE

This wasn't our train!  Not sure what the high viz workers were up to but it required a few of them to attend to this ( yes, it was a stationary train).


Our other point of call at Córdoba 
For lunch we had to return to the tiny bar (that we found last year) that specialises in the tortilla.


Standing room only, apart from one tiny table with two chairs.


We had a tortilla ( 2 Euros a slice) and a glass of wine each for the grand total of Euros 9 and then, alas, it was time to say goodbye to Córdoba once more.





Another beautiful place that we loved - and were fortunate to see again.

Visiting Córdoba Mosque/ Cathedral

A visit to Seville is not complete unless you also visit Cordoba.

It was probably the only "must do" that we had when we returned as we had been so overcome and impressed by the Mosque/Cathedral there that we wanted to relive the experience.
To quote from the UNESO web site:
…...In 711 the town was one of the first to fall to the Moorish conquerors, led by Tarik-ibn-Zayid, after his great victory at the Battle of Guadalete. When Abd-al-Rahman I was deposed as Caliph of Damascus in 756 he set up his court at Córdoba and laid the foundations for the most glorious period of the city's history. He began building the Great Mosque in 786, on the site of a Roman temple of Janus which had been converted into a church by the Visigoths, with the intention of creating a structure that outshone the mosque of Damascus. Work on it continued over the two succeeding centuries.
At the same time Córdoba became the centre of a great realm renowned for its artistic and intellectual predominance and its liberal toleration of other religions. At its height the city is said to have enclosed over 300 mosques and innumerable palaces and public buildings, rivalling the splendours of Constantinople, Damascus, and Baghdad. The Caliphate of Córdoba collapsed after the bitter civil war of 1009-31, and only the Great Mosque survived as a symbol of its achievements. With the accession of power by the Ahnoravid and, subsequently, the Ahuohad dynasties in the 12th century Córdoba recovered much of its former glory, however, as capital of Al-Andalus. Its intellectual supremacy was assured by great scholars such as Averroes (Abu Walid-ibn-Rusch) and Maimonides (Musa-ibn-Maymun).
In 1236 the city was captured by Ferdinand III the Saint, and Córdoba entered the Christian world again. The Great Mosque became the Cathedral and new defensive structures were raised……...

All part of the "entry" or exterior of the Mosque/Cathedral:








Even the exterior is spectular

One of the entries to the courtyard

Some of the original wood used - on display in courtyard

Part of the courtyard - before entry to the Mosque

Once inside -
The Moorish beginnings are combined with the influence of the Christians.
 The columns on the archways vary reflecting the different periods during construction. At the beginning there are these solid columns.  These then become the more slimmer ones.  The type ( and therefore colour) of marble used, changes over the different periods, extensions of the mosque


Some of the original tiled floor - about a metre below the currently used surface.









Incredible treasures inside as well as the amazing structures





A truly amazing place!